![]() ![]() I'm sure I'll try out the 3S and speed pinion eventually, but for my type of bashing, 2S is more than enough power, and I prefer the longer runtime to the additonal wheelspin and traction loss 3S would be giving me. It pretty much spins and wheelies on command in any situation already. I have a 3S lipo don't use it either because you are supposed to change pinions when you switch between 2S and 3S lipos, and I don't want to change pinions all the time just to run a faster battery, and 2S is plenty of power for me. I'm told you can run 4S (2 2S lipos in series) with an external lvc, but I wouldn't do it if you are interested in longevity. I guess I should, I just ordered it and it sat in the bottom of the hobby drawer since then. I have a parallel connector but haven't even run it. Which would be the best Dirt course set up? Which would be the best Road setup? I don't want to over or under gear this MERV! But someone has to know some combinations through their own trial and error. I am confusing myself as i type this - someone slap me straight! I have 19, 23, 26, 28, and 31T pinions. Bottom end is limiting the top speed, causing the motor to turn more revolutions just to move the spur gear faster.Ģ3T is called the high speed pinion, when in fact, it limits your top speed vice the factory 28T that gives you great top speed? It only "reduces stress on your electronics and motor" - which i still find weird? Maybe i am overthinking this. Has anyone run the 3S 1800mAh lipos with the stock gearing? How does it fare? I don't understand how "gearing up" the Revo damages the ESC/motor? You would think that would help reduce stress - since you're increasing top end not bottom end. I want this R/C to be able to handle great and perform great at a dirt track - much like what Gforce is running his through.īy the way, i have a few 19T's but haven't installed them, i actually installed a 26T to see how it does but will probably go back to the 23 to save my ESC and Motor - since i will be running 3S 1800 lipos now! and to just go with green on front and black on rear? I heard that the black and tan combo sucks. They as well, didn't come with any instructions. Yeah, i need to figure out the best set up for my preload - i mean how much do we need? If i drop the R/C from a 1 ft high, and it bottoms out, don't i need to increase pre load? The progrssive look the same on either side, but i will double check to make sure i have instaled them correctly. ![]()
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Divinity: Original Sin 2 builds on core gameplay and engine of its predecessor and delivers a true role-playing experience. Return to the world of Rivellon in the sequel to the Larian Studios' bestselling game. ![]() ![]() ![]() Recommending a hardware/software solution as a comment to a post is acceptable. We do not allow posts asking for recommendations on hardware/software or recommendations comparing two or more hardware/software. We are not a recommendation or advertisement subreddit. Please do not take advantage of the community. This community is "free" as it is full of volunteers. No Amazon gift voucher or PayPal transfer. No offering of reward/compensation for solutions. Issues with account lockout on any of the above platforms (and all others) Google, Apple, Microsoft, Instagram, Facebook or any other account Password Only support for the related account can help you. Do not message us asking us to make an exception. We cannot assist with password or account issues. ![]() Please make your title and contents descriptive. Posts with "Help" or non-descriptive titles. Posts with an empty body, only a link in the body, title copied into the body, and/or lack of information in the body Submissions consisting of the following are considered incomplete and will be removed: Please read our new rules page for more in-depth rules. Please do not submit the same issue more than once within 24 hours. Do everything you can to reduce the effort of the wonderful folks offering to help you.Īfter solving your problem, please mark it as solved by clicking 'flair' and confirming the 'solved' tag. State everything you have tried and all the guides/tutorials/sites you have followed as well as why they were unsuccessful. Try to research your issue before posting, don't be vague. The subreddit is only for support with tech issues. Please include your system specs, such as Windows/Linux/Mac version/build, model numbers, troubleshooting steps, symptoms, etc. Live Chat ~Enter Discord~ Submission Guidelines Check out our Knowledge Base, all guides are compiled by our Trusted Techs. ![]() ![]() ![]() Really, my most extreme response in a long time was talking to Connor at Fidelity last night when I learned about the situation with this "VIP Access".utter shock and disbelief, and unable to articulate a reply. I do make a conscious effort to be helpful and cooperative with these phone reps and not be obnoxious. But I suppose I understand the need for double security. I didn't like that I had to bother my wife several times so the agent could speak with her, even though I was set up as her representative. And patient for the long call, during which she had to toggle out to her internal Fidelity help lines for assistance. The agent was unfailingly helpful and capable. Update: It took 45 minutes on the phone with a patient and competent Fidelity agent to:ġ - disconnect wife's account from the "VIP Access" 2FA software on the computerĢ - register wife's account with the "VIP Access" 2FA software on a smart phoneģ - register my account with the "VIP Access" 2FA software on the computer I did use my vpn tonight to log in to the account from "Canada" and there was no problem getting in via VIP Access. Reason being that we will likely be using this from Canada and I don't want problems with that aspect. ![]() I have the inverse question: I want to run multiple Credential IDs on a single instance of VIP Access.Įdit # 2: I wonder if the cell phone number is required when installing VIP Access and if Fidelity has access to this number for operation of the software. With this I will be able to access both accounts with only my laptop, no smart phone required.Įdit to add: yes, it's widely known that VIP Access can be run on only one hardware device at a time (at least for Fidelity). I already have "full authorization" for her account and can access it via my own. Has anyone else run into such issues? I imagine that we will have to move VIP Access for my wife's account to a "smart phone" and use the instance on the laptop for my own account(s) (I assume Fidelity will let me use it for Roth, Inherited IRA, Rollover IRA, etc, but I could be mistaken). ![]() Other than the case that this is "free software". Nor can multiple instances of VIP Access be installed on the system.ĭoes anyone know if the single installation of VIP Access permits having multiple Credential IDs? I doubt this is the case but I see no reason why this couldn't or shouldn't be an available option. We tried using a different Windows account log-in to get a "fresh" VIP Access, but no joy. We have the VIP Access installed on a Windows laptop. I find the Yubi keys much more flexible and friendly, and this new wrinkle is very trying. However, in this case the software cannot be used with any other Fidelity account due to the registration of the Credential ID. VIP Access is identified with a Credential ID, this is given to the Fidelity agent who registers that with the particular client account. Fidelity's 2FA uses Symantec VIP Access software (time based code) rather than a hardware key. I am migrating some accounts to Fidelity for both my wife and me. ![]() ![]() A system using submarine power cables may be less costly overall if using high-voltage direct current transmission, especially on a long link where the capacitance of the cable would require too much additional charging current. 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Mass-impregnated insulation can be used for massive HVDC cables up to 525 kV.Ĭables ≥ 52 kV are equipped with an extruded lead sheath to prevent water intrusion. Mass-impregnated cables have also a paper-lapped insulation but the impregnation compound is highly viscous and does not exit when the cable is damaged. A central oil channel in the conductor facilitates oil flow in cables up to 525 kV for when the cable gets warm but rarely used in submarine cables due to oil pollution risk with cable damage. The entire cable core is impregnated with a low- viscosity insulation fluid ( mineral oil or synthetic). Low-pressure oil-filled cables have an insulation lapped from paper strips. Certain formulations of XLPE insulation can also be used for DC. It is produced by extrusion, with an insulation thickness of up to about 30 mm 36 kV class cables have only 5.5 – 8 mm insulation thickness. ![]() Three different types of electric insulation around the conductor are mainly used today.Ĭross-linked polyethylene (XLPE) is used up to 420 kV system voltage. In some designs, profiled wires (keystone wires) are laid up to form a round conductor with very small interstices between the wires. The conductor can be stranded from individual round wires or can be a single solid wire. For voltages ≥ 12 kV the conductors are round so that the insulation is exposed to a uniform electric field gradient. Conductor sizes ≤ 1200 mm 2 are most common, but sizes ≥ 2400 mm 2 have been made occasionally. The conductor is made from copper or aluminum wires, the latter material having a small but increasing market share. for the connection of offshore wind turbines) often carry optical fibers for data transmission or temperature measurement, in addition to the electrical conductors. ![]() The electric core is a concentric assembly of inner conductor, electric insulation, and protective layers (resembling the design of a coaxial cable). The purpose of submarine power cables is the transport of electric current at high voltage. ![]() ( May 2022) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message) Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. ![]() Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources in this section. This section needs additional citations for verification. ![]() ![]() A public server was installed on which games could be played around the clock it retained the games and published a post-game analysis webpage with per-player statistics and an animated map replay. Computer players are implemented directly in the server they do not play concurrently with human players, but separately, in between turns. In 1998, computer players were added they could soon beat newcomers to the game with ease, using only minor forms of cheating. This kept the game playable with network latency up to a few hundreds of milliseconds. Freeciv achieved this by using an asynchronous client-server protocol: during each turn, human users play concurrently, and their actions are sent to the server for processing without awaiting the results. The main development goal remained to make a Civilization-like game playable over the Internet, with participants on different continents, even when connected with 14400 bit/s modems. Linux distributions started to include Freeciv. Other players and developers took over they made the game available on many other operating systems, including Linux, Solaris, Ultrix, Amiga OS, and Microsoft Windows. A Freeciv game with full world map revealed ( Freeciv version 1.11.5, GTK+ client, tinydent tileset, islands map generator).įor the developers, Freeciv 1.0 was a successful proof of concept, but a rather boring game, so they went back to XPilot. The rules of the game were close to Civilization, while the client/server architecture was basically that of XPilot. The students-Peter Unold, Claus Leth Gregersen and Allan Ove Kjeldbjerg-started development in November 1995 the first playable version was released in January 1996, with bugfixing and small enhancements until April. Points are awarded for the size of a civilization, its wealth, and cultural and scientific advances.Īt the computer science department at Aarhus University, three students, avid players of XPilot and of Sid Meier's Civilization, which was a stand-alone PC game for MS-DOS, decided to find out whether the two could be fused into an X-based multiplayer Civilization-like strategy game. If more than one civilization remains at the deadline, the player with the highest score wins. The game ends when one civilization has eradicated all others or accomplished the goal of space colonization, or at a given deadline. Players can wage war on one another or form diplomatic relationships. Over time, new technologies are discovered, which allow the construction of new city buildings and the deployment of new units. who must guide their peoples through the centuries. ![]() Players take the role of tribal leaders in 4000 B.C. Freeciv is playable online at, , and some temporary private servers. However, with a lot of multiplayer games being played in longturn communities, rulesets and additional variants have evolved away from the original ruleset. The game's default settings are closest to Civilization II, in both gameplay and graphics, including the units and the isometric grid. Released under the GNU GPL-2.0-or-later, Freeciv is free and open source software. It is available for most desktop computer operating systems and available in an online browser version. Freeciv is a single- and multiplayer turn-based strategy game for workstations and personal computers inspired by the proprietary Sid Meier's Civilization series. ![]() ![]() For the X direction, the entire laser and mirror unit will physically move left to right. The way this works in the Form 3 generation is actually pretty interesting: While the earlier Form 2 machines and other laser SLA printers like the Moai have a fixed laser and a pair of pivoting mirrors called galvos to redirect that laser to any spot in the build area, the Form 3 generation only uses a galvo for moving the laser back and forth in the Y direction. But the Formlabs printers are laser SLA machines where, similar to filament printers, they will actually trace out the contour and infill for each layer of your part. ![]() The MSLA machines that I’ve used like the Prusa SL1S, or any of the Elegoo, Anycubic or Creality machines use a UV LED array and a masking LCD above that to only expose the parts of each layer where your part is going to end up, and turn the LCD black everywhere else. The way the Form 3+ exposes the prints is actually the main difference between it and most of the resin 3D printers that you’ll have seen so far – definitely any that you’ve seen on this channel so far. By default, it still comes with a classic rigid build plate. That hot new flexible build platform is also something that is still an optional upgrade, even on the Form 3+. I couldn’t test this because I don’t have a non-plus unit to compare to, but later on, we’re still going to take a look at print speed overall. But the + apparently has a new laser unit for exposing the resin, which they claim can speed up some prints by as much as 40%. Build volume stays the same at 145 x 145 x 185mm, the machine size and look stays the same, it is a rather chunky boi for how comparatively small the build area is, and the mechanical construction, software features etc, all seem to be identical. So what are the differences anyway? Unlike the printer itself, the changes don’t seem to be huge. The Form 3+ even showed up as a Form 3 in their software. I mean, I’m happy I can review the most recent hardware, but still, I would appreciate being filled in on these things – especially because the Form 3 and Form 3+ are rather hard to tell apart. They did pull a sneaky one on me, though, and quietly sent a Form 3+ before it was released instead of the Form 3 they claimed they had sent. Because the Form 3+ does a lot of things differently than what you’ll be used to, I wanted to take an in-depth look at each of the areas that I found interesting about the machine, starting today with what’s special about how the Formlabs machines create 3D parts and specifically what’s new with this “Plus” version of this Form 3.Īs usual: Let’s start with the disclosure:įormlabs sent me this printer free of charge to test out, I will need to send it back once I’m done, no money changed hands and Formlabs does not get any influence on this review. ![]() And if anything, it’s doing a lot of things right that other manufacturers could learn from. ![]() ![]() I’m going to keep making comparisons throughout the review to some of those, but the thing is – the Form 3+ is also the most sophisticated 3D printer I’ve ever used and it absolutely has applications where it’s the right tool to get. It’s also using the most expensive consumables of any printer I’ve tested so far, and all this can make the Form 3+ seem like it’s a really bad deal compared to simpler printers that literally cost 1/10th as much to buy and run. But is it actually good? I’ve got a lot of thoughts, but let’s start with the basics about the Form 3+ in this video.īefore we start, I feel like I should point out that the Formlabs Form 3+ is 4400€ just by itself, making it the most expensive printer I’ve reviewed on the channel. The Formlabs Form 3+ is a marvelous piece of gear with more engineering effort put into it than almost any 3D printer that I’ve used before. ![]() |
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